Living down to the reputation

Blog Bothnia 2023

It’s soooo cold. It’s June, and still baltic. Lovely Sofia in Waxholm marina has assured me today that it will be warm ‘soon’. This harbour is normally one of the most crowded in Sweden, and booking in advance is strongly advised. Today, four boats. Four crews with multiple layers and woolly hats, sheltering from an icy wind and sneaking below decks to turn on heaters and electric blankets.

The wind has been unhelpful too. Somehow it always seems to be on the nose, adding wind chill, as if we need it. It’s supposed to be south westerly coming from behind, making it all lovely sailing in the sunshine. Instead, it’s been north-easterly by day, and overnight swaps by 180° making it tricky to find a sheltered anchorage. This has been going on for weeks.

Now as we’ve turned east, the wind has turned with us. Aarrggh!

In fact what’s happening is a breeze from the land offshore, meeting onshore wind from the sea. If you’re lucky enough to live just inland, there is no wind as the two systems collide. That calm drifts more seaward as the night air cools, and swaps the direction.

I guess it will end when the land and sea temperatures are more similar, and summer begins.

A tricky passage between the reds and greens

But, as always the journey is beautiful, meandering carefully between granite rocks and wooded islands, seabirds everywhere, swallows nesting under harbour boardwalks, and swans sleeping in the reeds. This really is one of the most perfect places in the world.

Tied to a deserted pontoon north of Kalmar

Meanwhile, another mug of hot tea is required.

3 thoughts on “Living down to the reputation

  1. It was similarly “Baltic” in Scotland on our recent trip. Hot water bottle down the front of your jacket required! Now we’re back home in Kent, it’s cold here, however Oban is now lovely and warm!

  2. Interestingly, your blog on 2nd June last year emphasized that it was still very cold. and yet within a week or two we were all happily swimming in the Baltic … just keep drinking that hot tea till the winds and weather change …it will be soon, Sofia said so… and then maybe it will warm up in Kent too. Rxx

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