The Archipelago

Down the Rocky Road to Nynashamn

It's crew changeover day today, and we are in Nynashamn. It's also Midsummer Day, and Sweden's biggest festival. The whole place closes down, and the Swedes party, before going on a long holiday. Brendan has left and Breidge is arriving later. It is also raining, and we are hiding below decks. We had a wonderful few days travelling from Arkosund ...

A week in the Skargard

We have a fantastic pilot guidebook to the Swedish Archipelago. On a large map of the entire area hundreds of little coves and harbours are marked and numbered. In the guidebook each of these is described in detail, with an aerial photograph, a small chart showing hazards and depths, and information on where to tie to the rocks, where to ...

Free Spirit

It was strange to come into a bay on an Island in Sweden, and have someone call 'Karen!' from a nearby boat. In 2014 as a newly qualified ski instructor who knew nothing, I had been put in charge of eight teenagers learning to ski in Courmayeur. My fellow instructors were really helpful, and none more so than Dave and ...

From Sack to Ekholmen

A beautiful red sunset in our anchorage on Sack, East of Stockholm, heralded a return to summer weather after a few days when it was a bit 'Scottish West Coast'. (Of course Scotland and Ireland are basking in the best weather in 20 years). In the morning we slipped very slowly through the narrow and shallow entrance, and sailed west ...

How not to launch a warship

We spent a few days sightseeing in Stockholm before our next guests arrived. The highlight was a trip to the Vasa Museum, where the warship Vasa built in 1628 has been restored. At the time it was the largest warship in the world. And like the Titanic it sank on its maiden voyage, but even more spectacularly it sank in ...

Love huts

The Swedish really make the most of their island paradise, and in many coves there are little wooden jetties leading to little wooden huts where there are composting toilets and often rubbish bins. On the charts these features are shown as a door with a heart symbol, and indeed many of the real doors do have heart shaped openings. We ...

Portuguese Visitors

The last week has been a relaxing (mostly!) introduction to live-aboard life with Patrick and Rachel. We have cruised around the Stockholm islands, anchoring or tying up to jetties. The area is full of boats - little motor yachts zooming past, sailing boats, ferries that are the island commuter service, and huge cruise liners bringing thousands of tourists for a ...

Snakeing through the islands

There is a fabulous peaceful anchorage hidden away between the rocks on an island wildlife reserve on Biskopson. The entrance is narrow, shallow, surrounded by rocks and the channel twists and swerves for a mile or so before arriving at the far end in a lagoon, with low rolling granite islets all around. There were two other boats anchored there ...

Wildlife and wildfire

It's an amazing summer here in Sweden and we are so lucky to have chosen this summer to be here on a lovely boat! But high temperatures and no rain have consequences. The next day we sailed south through the islands and spotted a pair of sea eagles perched on a beacon - a magnificent sight. A rare seal swam ...