A spanking sail to windward with one reef took us to the lighthouse island of Utklippan.
We were charmed immediately, as the harbourmaster hoisted an Irish flag to welcome us in.
The inner harbour was constructed in wartime, and is very sheltered. There are actually two islands making up the harbour, and public transport between them is provided in the form of little rowing boats.
We chatted to Olaf, who runs the harbour in the summer months, and heads to Spain to escape the winter. Nearby Karlskrona is Sweden’s military base, and so there are warships around and jets flying overhead. Olaf told us of local wrecks including a Russian submarine sunk on the rocks, nowadays attracting sub-aqua clubs to the island along with the birdwatchers and sailors.
The hut on the quay finally provided the shelter we needed for that elusive barbecue! Just as well, as we are running short of supplies.