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This is the end, beautiful friend

Then it was Monday. Melodrama was lifted out of the water, and Mads and Rikke Christiansen arrived from Holbæk to ...

Home Base

And suddenly, we were back in Augustenborg, to begin the hard work of returning Melodrama to peak condition. After a ...

Return passage

Without our genoa it was time to break out the ´emergency’ storm sail. It’s a cool device, a tiny red ...

Waffling in Rudkøbing

My love of liquorice ice cream is well known and every harbour is an opportunity to seek out the local ...

Four days in Agersø

Day 1 The windy conditions from the ‘wrong’ direction sent us to the island of Agersø instead of our plan ...

Rain stops play

It’s Sunday morning, and here we are on board, with a day of rain ahead. The ‘sitooterie’ * has been ...

Svendborg via Faaborg

We love Faaborg. We had another fantastic day, with a sail to windward in warm sunshine, followed by a long ...

Never say never

Wednesday was a super day, with a pleasant breeze and sunshine for sailing. We planned to go through the Sonderborg ...

Whatever you do …..

Next task was to rig the sails. Despite keeping copious notes, we seem to have to rediscover the process every ...

Where’s the butter!

Tuesday morning, and Anders is back from Japan. He had a look at the mast crane and said they would ...

Bitter sweet

We have just accepted a very good offer on Melodrama from a really delightful young Danish couple who came to ...

Going dark

Our loyal followers will know that this is a time of great change in our lives. And we have taken ...

Remember Hesnaes?

Our season ended without further excitement. Mary proved to be excellent crew, and the weather presented an opportunity for her ...

Don’t rock the boat

Finally we had weather to allow us to sail on towards home base. Our friend Mary was to join us ...

Shelter from the Storm

Day 3 in Hesnaes. It’s turned out to be quite a good choice for a safe haven, given the limited ...

Musical chairs

Severe storm Antoni is on the way and will be wreaking havoc in a few days. Everyone knows it, and ...

Half bishop half fish

It’s Monday, and we are in Karlskrona in the rain. I do like this place, and right at the head ...

Time out in Kalmar

The Radar receiver has stopped working. We’ve checked all the terminals at the base of the mast, and they seem ...

Sailing South

We’ve had a great cruise from Nynashamn to Kalmar over the last two weeks with regular crew member Brendan, wriggling ...

Welcome visitors

It all seems a long time ago now, but it shouldn’t go unblogged that we had a couple of great ...

Intermission

After the eventful week in Waxholm, and finally getting the boat back on the road, we set off towards the ...

Eureka!

Unbelievably, our diver Björn arrived later in the afternoon, and after checking the bottom of the harbour for a good ...

Hotel California

…where you can check out any time you like, but you can never leave … Friday. There was a good ...

Waning in Waxholm

Waxholm, we are still only in Waxholm. Shortly after arriving here last Thursday we gauged that a little weep from ...

Living down to the reputation

It’s soooo cold. It’s June, and still baltic. Lovely Sofia in Waxholm marina has assured me today that it will ...

Quintessentially Sweden

The last few days have reminded us why we love cruising the Baltic so much. The winds haven’t been perfect, ...

Blowing hot and cold

We’ve had some amazing weather, great sailing breezes and harbour afternoons with 25° in the sun, then bitterly cold nights ...

Passage planning

We usually have a broad plan for the season. This year we hope to sail to the north end of ...

Season finale

It’s been a wonderful summer and the last week of sailing had everything. A fabulous wind sped us homeward in ...

Going to Louisiana, but no banjo

It was different sailing south from Göteborg towards Copenhagen. The water is again saline, there is a bit of tide ...

Feeling Small

The route out of Lake Vanern into the Skagerrak at Göteborg is through the Trollhätte Canal. Unlike the delightful old ...

An Unexpected Turn

One morning, we woke up, having planned our coming week travelling south along the Swedish coast, back the way we ...

Broken Island Weather

25th July saw us back on board Melodrama, with our great friend and crew member Brendan. Brendan has cruised most ...

Time Out

We left the boat swinging on a mooring overlooked by the Royal Swedish Sailing Club Grand Hotel in Saltsjöbaden, south ...

‘Paradiset’ everywhere

We’ve just come from a wonderful harbour surrounded by little islands in Finnhamn which is known as Paradiset. It is ...

New Crew! And our first guest bloggers since 2019

How generous to be called ‘new crew’; I’d say ‘new liability’ as the fella with the big grin limped on ...

The Royal Yacht

Destination Stockholm, and a new crew. But first we had to exit the lock keeping the water level stable in ...

Marry us, Marcus!

Lake Mälaren was a great decision. The long fjord to the canal entrance is truly lovely. At the southerly end ...

Cool running

Northwards, along the coast towards our June destination in Stockholm. The coastline north of Kalmar is quite literally awash with ...

Charts and plotters

Neither of us has ever had a GPS chart plotter before, except an iPad. And we are both such tech ...

A Hint of Summer?

….or ‘Still Baltic in the Baltic’ Here we are in Kalmar, which is a really cool town with a great ...

Commander Lars

Ystad is a regular stopover for us when traveling to and from Sweden. It is of course famous as the ...

Baltic in the Baltic

Following two summers of Covid restrictions, at last we have plans to spend the whole season exploring the Baltic Sea ...

Kraken Craic

It’s nearly 4pm and a week after my trip to Malta. At 4pm, it’s time for my watch to get ...

Telefonica Black

And just when you think it’s all over, Karen signed up for a week sailing a Volvo Ocean 70 racing ...

Maggie May…

It’s late September and we really should be back at Fahan. The boat is back in Augustenborg marina, and we’ve ...

Raducanu!

Ærøskøbing harbour is next to a wonderful natural anchorage, with room for over 100 boats, and little bathing huts all ...

Island life

One of the upsides of our restricted sailing waters this summer has been the chance to visit lots of little ...

Mud, glorious mud

It’s September, and the island ferries are busy taking lorries loaded with harvests to the mainland . On Fejø, the ...

Copenhagen

What a lovely city. Pretty waterfront restaurants, framed by old wooden boats in cobbled streets and a happy vibe. There ...

Towards Copenhagen

Eventually the wind subsided a little, and blew from aft of the beam, so we ventured out towards Copenhagen, via ...

Kerteminde

This pretty town was a delight. The marina had great facilities, including working wi-fi - quite a treat! But the ...

Rain stops play

Here we are, tied up securely in Stubbekjøbing harbour, as outside 38 knots squalls howl and torrential rain pours down ...

Culture in Kolding

Sometimes the most unlikely spots really are the most memorable. Kolding is at the end of a long channel, and ...

Flensburg, Germany

Last weekend, we decided to sail to the pretty German city of Flensburg. We’d been chatting to German sailors who ...

Anchors aweigh

Way back last year (or was it even the year before?), the anchor had a rather too close encounter with ...

High Hopes

The fifth day is free in Sønderborg Marina. We didn’t expect to be here this long, but we get a ...

Storm bound

This is Melodrama’s fourth day in Sønderborg Marina. We came in for a new anchor (another post ….) but the ...

The Gendarmstein Way

There are lovely walking trails around Høruphav, which stretch across the country, and are now a popular 84 km trekking ...

Harbour Days

It’s now the last week of the Danish School holidays, and harbour mania is coming to an end. It’s been ...

Last Port Lyø

We've sailed past this tiny island many times, always en route to somewhere further, but with a few days to ...

What do they call a Danish Pastry in Denmark?

Faaborg is a favourite to visit, a nice distance from which to plan the last days, and a very large ...

Cruising in Company

The weather has been glorious now for weeks, and the best place to be is at anchor in a little ...

Fejø Fruit

This week, we learnt that ø at the end of a name means island, and used to be spelled and ...

The pop-up diesel berth

We planned to spend a few days exploring the Lolland area, and made our way via Bagenkøp to the small ...

Success!

No words necessary! ...

All in a fankle

Leaving Marstal, we set off by yacht to explore the north of the island, first navigating a narrow shallow channel, ...

Ærø Island

After two lazy days on anchor, our destination was the harbour town of Marstal on the south end of the ...

Sea Fever

All during lock down, I would walk along the Lade Braes in St Andrews to visit Mum and Dad. At ...

Under the Q Flag

This week, in another life, we would have set sail from Augustenborg in Denmark, heading north towards Norway, making our ...

One last melodrama and we’re done

The harbour entrance, or more accurately exit, in Ærokøbing is sufficiently wide to enter and leave, under normal circumstances. As ...

Ærøskøbing

The south sea islands of Denmark are one of the great sailing areas in the Baltic, and Ærøskøbing must be ...

West winds

Ian and Mary left the ship at Ystad, where there is a good train connection to Copenhagen. It's a pretty ...

Absolutely Åhus

As a gin drinker, I'd always assumed all vodka is made in Russia. So it was a huge surprise to ...

A Pin Tale

We are working our way round the coastline of Sweden, heading generally towards Denmark. From Kalmar, going south, the wind ...

Silver linings

It's been an enchanting week. It's Sunday morning, and we are back in Kalmar city marina, reading the papers (online) ...

Consequences

William thinks it's dangerous when Karen isn't busy, and he's probably right. The Dog Last August, in Göteborg, I was ...

Mazu’s blog – Part 2

If, like me, you enjoyed our crew's description of our time in Finland, here is the 'other half' describing our ...

Return to ‘Barbecue Bay’

We have only revisited four places this year, but fifth on the list had to be Nåttarö. It has a ...

Mixing with Royalty

Having visited the premier yacht club in Helsinki harbour in Finland, it was obvious we were going to have to ...

Return of the Vikings

Last year, our favourite island Ekholmen was just outside Stockholm and owned by the Vikingarnas Sailing Club. So we had ...

Rock hopping in the Skärgård

The general advice given to sailors in the Finnish and Swedish archipelagos is to choose the next destination based upon ...

Guest blog – July

This month's guest blog is from the visiting crew of Mazu, currently in Sicily, via a transatlantic crossing last year ...

Rodhamn

Just outside Mariehamn, the capital of the Åland Islands, is a little treasure of a harbour, another of our racing ...

Island Odyssey

There are two marinas in Hanko, the port at the tip of mainland Finland, and an essential stop before heading ...

Heading West

It was pouring with rain as we met Hope and Howard off the evening train in Helsinki, and not the ...

St Petersburg or bust

The plan had included a visit to St Petersburg ever since Karen found out it wasn't easy..... But all up ...

A wash and brush up

After four days island-hopping along the Finnish coast reacquainting ourselves with the joys of 'love hut' dry toilets, we were ...

Guest blogger!

Well ahoy there sailors!! I am your guest blogger for today... Ian and I joined Karen and William on their ...

Finland

We've been in Finland for about a week, and we have crew! Ian and Mary joined us in Porvoo, Finland's ...

Getting some work done

Before arriving in Tallinn, we contacted a young sailmaker, Oleg, who was happy to repair the torn stack pack. It's ...

Banged up in Tallinn

So, Melodrama made her way into the Port Ops zone of the capital city of Estonia, Tallinn. It's a beautiful, ...

No Weather for Sailing

Three days in Kardla, with a strong easterly gale, dramatic lightning and thunder, and torrential rain - what's not to ...

Estonia Rocks

There is a local history museum in Kuressaare Castle, which shows the islands of Estonia emerging from the sea over ...

Estonia

So it was, with trepidation, that we made our way into Estonian waters, expecting at any moment to be boarded ...

The Ensign Enigma

This story began weeks ago in Sweden, but it's time to go public. We were in Ystad harbour one morning, ...

The Cow Parade

Ventspils, Latvia, an old oil and petrochemical port, very important in the days when Russia ruled in Latvia, and our ...

The Seventh Seal

In the last week, the weather has been very variable. Every other day, there is a good weather window to ...

Warning signals

We love AIS. On the chart plotter, as Melodrama sails along, little triangles with dotted extension lines show approaching vessels, ...

Van Gogh

While in Kalmar, waiting for the next frontal system to pass through, we took a walk over to Kalmar Slott, ...

Across Little Biscay

Well, there have been a few very jolly days taking us from Ystad to Kalmar. The sea area has a ...

Scandi Noir

Monday evening, and after the foggy day, we looked out on the Oresund Bridge that links Sweden and Denmark. For ...

Rødvig Day 5 …. nearly

Sure enough, the fog was back in the morning. But all our neighbours have work to go to on Monday, ...

Rødvig Day 4

Saturday, star date May 18. The wind has eased, but we now we have woken up to thick fog. Out ...

On the way to the Co-op

(With apologies to Creationists) Here we are nestled in a very sheltered harbour at Rødvig, because out there, it's honking ...

Wriggling through the islands

It's been a week since we were finally able to leave Augustenborg, and begin our passage east. The weather has ...

1864

Did anyone see 1864, the Danish 8 part historical drama on BBC a couple of years ago? Recommended. It recounts ...

It’s baltic in the Baltic

Thursday 2nd May at 10:15 was our appointed slot to launch Melodrama for the season ahead, and so we set ...

Coming Soon – Season 2

It's still the middle of the skiing season, but our thoughts have turned to the summer ahead, and we have ...

Finally, Augustenborg

The Danes call this area the 'South Sea Islands' and it is a delightful cruising ground, full of bays, harbours ...

There is no tide in the Baltic …..

It has been different, cruising in a sea without tidal rise and fall. We can pull into a little bay, ...

Weather to Sail

Mixed forecasts. Generally we look at four of them every day, and for a few days ahead. Usually there is ...

Viking Ports

The long hot summer is well and truly over. Melodrama is making her way along the Danish coast, harbour hopping ...

A Russian Warship

A blustery beat round a shoaling headland or a day sheltering behind the wall in Odde harbour? We chose to ...

Mr Gerrard’s Midnight Temptation

Three days in Goteborg in a nice but tight harbour, while we waited to welcome our new crew Anthony and ...

The Göta Alv Bridge

The biggest challenge of the passage through the canals and lakes from Stockholm to Goteborg was always going to come ...

To Trollhättan

It took three days to cross Lake Vanern, one of the largest lakes in Europe. A stop at Mariestad to ...

The Great Escape

Early morning and only a few locks to go to the end of our journey through the Göta Canal. The ...

Locking Down

Ian and Mary have joined the crew and we are on our way west and down towards Göteborg. Having honed ...

The Lakes

The Göta Canal stretches across rural Sweden, with long canal sections linked by natural lakes. At Motala, we spent a ...

The Swedish Vacuum Cleaner

We are all hooked on a delicious treat that is a Swedish tradition available everywhere. These little green rolls of ...

A Melodrama in the Göta Canal

'I'd like to try steering in a couple of these locks' announced an over-confident Karen one morning. Soon it had ...

Söderköping

Our time in the Archipelago is over and we are on our way across Sweden from East to West via ...

Wildlife and wildfire

It's an amazing summer here in Sweden and we are so lucky to have chosen this summer to be here ...

Snakeing through the islands

There is a fabulous peaceful anchorage hidden away between the rocks on an island wildlife reserve on Biskopson. The entrance ...

Portuguese Visitors

The last week has been a relaxing (mostly!) introduction to live-aboard life with Patrick and Rachel. We have cruised around ...

Love huts

The Swedish really make the most of their island paradise, and in many coves there are little wooden jetties leading ...

How not to launch a warship

We spent a few days sightseeing in Stockholm before our next guests arrived. The highlight was a trip to the ...

From Sack to Ekholmen

A beautiful red sunset in our anchorage on Sack, East of Stockholm, heralded a return to summer weather after a ...

Plan D

We took the new shackle apart, and extracted its spring, pin and ring. This fitted the old shackle. I'm amazed, ...

Unbelievable! We need a Plan D

Who would have thought it. There are two different styles of Selden Snap-shackle of the correct size for our sail ...

Plan C

Somewhere in Sweden there must be a snap shackle for our Code 0!! Breidge and I sat down with a ...

Twenty-first Century Argonauts

The saga of the Selden shackle for our Code 0 sail continues. Kirk's shackle from Comber was a different brand ...

The long way round bridge to Bullando

We have been having trouble with the wind sensor on Melodrama since she was first commissioned. Initially it was an ...

Free Spirit

It was strange to come into a bay on an Island in Sweden, and have someone call 'Karen!' from a ...

A week in the Skargard

We have a fantastic pilot guidebook to the Swedish Archipelago. On a large map of the entire area hundreds of ...

Down the Rocky Road to Nynashamn

It's crew changeover day today, and we are in Nynashamn. It's also Midsummer Day, and Sweden's biggest festival. The whole ...

Aladdin’s Cave

There are chandleries to buy boat bits in nearly every port and harbour here, and I love exploring them to ...

Wanted – Selden PBB 60 snap-shackle

After an early start for a long day, we found a sheltered anchorage, tucked behind some rocks and islands, and ...

Tourists in Visby

Today, Gotland Island sits in the Baltic Sea, a good long day sail from the mainland. We broke the passage ...

Down the rocky road

There is a saying in Sweden that there are those who have hit rocks and those who will hit rocks ...

A perfect day for a kite

The sun was shining and a gentle breeze from behind was taking us slowly north to Borgholm on Oland island ...

Quinta de Sant’Ana the long way round

We had an unmissable appointment in Portugal, so Melodrama was left tied up in Karlskrona and we set off by ...

The Lying Launderette

Karlskrona has been Sweden’s main naval base since 1680, and until recently was off limits to passing sailors. Now it ...

Two reefs and a storm sail

With all Olaf’s talk of high winds and shipwrecks, we rigged the storm sail to try it out, and marked ...

A warm welcome in Utklippan

A spanking sail to windward with one reef took us to the lighthouse island of Utklippan. We were charmed immediately, ...

Wild mooring

A perfect beat in 12 -16 kts of summer breeze took us to the buoyed channel to Arpo island. There ...

Wild Anchorages

The forecast today was 24C and sunny! We were determined now to attempt the challenge of navigating through the Archipelago, ...

Welcome to Sweden

Hano was our next ‘not to be missed’ location, a small island off the coast of Sweden. To get there ...

Christianso

Everyone we have met has said we must not miss Christianso Island, so we left Allinge with a good breeze ...

Sundown in Allinge

We had a great sail up to Allinge on the NE Coast of Bornholm, having altered course (again!) at the ...

Norrekas

We set off in flat calm on Monday to cross to Bornholm Island, and made Norrekas Marina in Ronne our ...

Lohme

On Steffan's recommendation, we skipped the ferry port of Sassnitz, and sailed round the coast to the small harbour of ...

Seedorf

Our first stop was a totally charming little wharf at Seedorf in among the reeds, and our first experience of ...

Down river

Saturday morning and we are filling up with water, plotting our route and making ready to leave Greifswald. All the ...

Two wheels on my wagon

After our handover sail, we began a week of filling up the boat with our gear, and fitting all the ...

Maiden Voyage

And here at last is our lovely boat! Ready to sail, with two wheels, and we are just waiting for ...

Finding Melodrama

Our plan was to arrive at the factory in Greifswald a few days before handover, to be on hand to ...

The adventure begins

Saturday evening, 21st April 2018, and we were packed up, trailer loaded, and off to catch the overnight ferry to ...

Shrink wrap

Our boat is a boat! Today we took delivery of our new Dehler 38 in Griefswald. It has been shrink ...

Grapefruit Graphics

I have been working with hull graphics specialists Grapefruit Graphics to design the logo for Melodrama - this is the ...

Watching Drama Queen on AIS

AIS is a wonderful piece of technology which is fitted to all commercial boats, and to many non-commercial craft too.  ...

The Dehler Factory

On a wet Wednesday in October, we flew to Berlin from Dublin, and took the train to Greifswald where the ...

Yachtmasters

After two fun-filled and exhausting weeks, the weekend of reckoning came. We had shared our first week with Veronique, a ...

Learning to Sail in Gibraltar

Last year, way before we decided to buy a bigger boat, we booked a sailing holiday in September in the ...

Now all we need is a boat…

I know, I know, but I couldn't imagine having a boat without a spinnaker! So we've ordered one from Saturn ...

Meltdown!

We found a local Kip business that looks after the boats in the marina when owners are not there. So ...

Trip to Kip 2

Our last ever cruise on Drama Queen was a complete contrast to the June trip. Fair winds, sun, and some ...

A Pint and Quart

The end of August marks the end of the summer, and the traditional pursuit race to Portsalon, one of the ...

Very Brexit Problems

As we deliberated over the final specification for the new boat, a worrying factor emerged. Every time the government made ...

The Trip to Kip

In June, when the weather in the North West corner of Ireland has a chance to be fine, we set ...